11. 4 day Jeep trip from Tupiza to Uyuni, Bolivia

We left the comfortable confines of Tupiza, Bolivia - 4 of us in a 4x4Toyota from Tupeza Tours accompanied by a guide/translator/cook and a driver. We had to pay a little extra for an English speaking guide, which proved to be money well spent. Most of our luggage was tied on the roof under a plastic tarp, along with spare wheel, spare fuel and assorted other stuff.

After about 100 yards of pavement we were on dirt "roads" which would continue for the rest of the trip. They are actually very rough mountain roads which you would never consider tackling on your own. No signs, roads angling off all over to who knows where. Even with a GPS you would be lost in no time.

Day 1

Got to know our companions - the other two were a young couple  from France, Guillaume and Emilie, driver Alfredo  and Janet, the other valuable asset. Visited a few native villages, saw lots of Llama and Vicuna (related) and some great scenery, including snow-capped volcanoes. The jeep travelled well - we each had our own window. The dust was something to behold. Thank goodness the traffic was light.

Overnight at "new" San Antonio was very basic. Adobe building in a small village, no heat, electricity for lighting for 2 hours (7 to 9pm), 4 bed dorm with 4 blankets each plus the sleeping bags we rented. We sure needed them as the temperature dropped below freezing - we were at 13,800 ft altitude. Janet prepared a great supper and we were entertained by 5 local youngsters singing and playing their homemade flutes.

It was difficult to sleep due to the altitude and accompanying headaches.

Day 2

We were awaken at 5 am for our breakfast, packing in the dark and 6 am departure. The sun didn't rise until about 7.

First stop was "old" San Antonio - a large former Inca village of 2000 inhabitants. Apparently it was abandoned sometime during the conflicts with the Spanish. It was amazing how well preserved the buildings were - they were all made of stone and the roofs were the only parts that were missing. Contrast the construction of these houses with the ones in "new" San Antonio where we spent the previous night. There the homes were all adobe brick, which would be gone in no time if the village was abandoned.

An interesting creature inhabited the ruins of old San Antonio - a vizcacha - rabbit-like with a long curled tail and jumped like a kangaroo.

We visited several lagoons, some with pink flamingos. There are many mineral-laden lagoons with salty composition in this area, some of which are being mined. Entered the huge National Andean Fauna Reserve. We stopped at a hot springs for lunch and had a welcome hot soak in the cool air. You didn't need to towel off as in the dry, high altitude, you were dry in minutes.

Shortly before lunch we had a flat tire on the jeep. No problem. Alfredo had the spare off the roof, changed the tire and we were underway in 10 minutes max. Over lunch, he and some fellow drivers patched the tube (they use tube tires as they can be repaired anywhere) and put the tire back on the jeep.

We visited a beautiful lagoon with Volcan Zabaleri as a backdrop - the peak is a demarcation point between Chile, Argentina and Bolivia. At the end of the day we realized that we had met ZERO vehicles coming the other way during the entire day.

Almost 16,000 ft. Elevation

 Accommodation (unplanned by the guide as we were running late and that was all that was available) was  at 14,100 ft and was even more basic. Pit toilet (1) and no running water. Oh well we still had the 4 blankets and the sleeping bag. It was even colder than the night before. Still difficulty in sleeping and headaches due to the altitude.

Day 3

Were woken at 6am - real treat to sleep in! First stop was at Salta Manzana - a fantastic geothermal area. Lots of steam shooting from vents in the soil along with bubbling mud. Totally surreal. Took lots of photos but found sulphur deposits all over the camera and ourselves.

Next stop was the Red Lagoon - named for the colour of it's water - lots of pink flamingos. The red water is due to the mineral content. Then saw a volcano that is still smoking. Checked out of the national park - a great asset for Bolivia.

The Siloli Desert was next - some weird rock formations. We climbed some of them and took too many photos. Then Laguna Honda with more flamingos - there is a hotel there so the birds are a little more used to humans - got quite close for photos. We are flamingoed out!Towards the end of the day we drove over the Chiyana salt flats at great speed towards our accommodation for the night in Jyaca.

Interesting place to spend the night. All the walls and floors are made of salt from the huge Uyuni salt flats nearby. Also the tables and chairs. We had our own room - more like a closet but they had a !hot shower! - first in 3 days yaay! Still having trouble with the altitude.




Day 4



Sunrise over the salt flats

5 am wakeup for 5.30 departure. Drove right onto the Uyuni salt flats  - went about 20 km and stopped to watch the sunrise over the totally white salt. Awesome. The Uyuni salt flats are the largest in the world (about 12,000 sq km and also the highest at 12,000 ft. The surface is so uniform that it's elevation varies by less than 1 metre over the entire surface.It's so even that it is used to calibrate the altimeters of Earth-observation satellites. When it gets flooded in the rainy season, it becomes the worlds largest mirror!

Next stop was an "island" - Incawaasi Is. in the salt flat. Apparently when it rains a lot (not too often in this desert environment) it does actually become an island . Otherwise you can drive right up to it. It was originally underwater and was covered with corals, which still cover most of the island's surface. It is densely populated with several varieties of cacti that are very similar to the saguaro cactus in Arizona. Hiked to the top - really noticed how laboured our breathing was in this altitude - 12,000 ft. Had a tailgate breakfast at the jeep.

The Uyuni salt flats have to be seen to be believed. They are immense. That day we drove about 140 km across them. The deepest is about 120m - all salt! Due to the whiteness and

uniformity of the surface, life becomes almost 2 dimensional. Distance perspective is lost. We had a blast in the middle of the flats taking weird photos of each other using the illusion of distance. Also got a sunburn - we were well covered due to the chilly weather but the sun plus reflection off the salt made for some red faces. Driving on the salt brings back memories of driving on frozen lakes in Canada.

Arrived in Uyuni about noon. Janet prepared our lunch while Alfredo drove us to the Train Graveyard. A huge area covered with ancient steam locomotives, coaches and all kinds of old railway equipment. Despite the graffiti it was an interesting spectacle. There must be a lack of ability to recycle the metal here - in Canada the scrap value would be huge.

Finally said goodbye to our team of Janet and Alfredo. They were excellent. Driving on those mountain roads requires constant focus on every rut and bend. Janet had to be up earlier and stay up later than us to prepare meals and wash up. She was awesome. Based on our experience, we would highly recommend Tupiza Tours.

Train Graveyard in Uyuni

The 4 day trip was nothing short of fantastic.

10. Salta, Argentina and crossing the border into Bolivia

SALTA

These long bus trips are getting a little tedious. After some serious discussions at the huge Cordoba bus station about the discrepancies  between the guy that sold us the ticket and what actually appeared re what constitutes "executivo" class, we finally were on our way north to Salta - 12 hrs. (We won the argument but had to pay a bit more for the better seats).

The seats were great - they reclined totally horizontal so sleeping was much easier. Unfortunately the rear end of the bus rode as if the shocks were welded shut - we felt every pebble in the road.

Salta is a pleasant place - we will be returning in a couple of weeks, so just got the lay of the land. Took the Teleferico (gondola) up the mountain for a great view and visited a very interesting museum dedicated to three Inca children that had been sacrificed around 500 years ago and buried atop a high Andean peak along with a trove of artifacts. Due to the altitude and low temperature, their bodies were perfectly preserved. In their culture, the sacrifice was seen as an honour.

We left Salta for the northern border city of Quiaca, headed for Bolivia. We still have no confirmation that our desired 4 day jeep trip is possible, but we decided to head into Bolivia anyhow. In the am we "arrived" in Quiaca- actually we never made it all the way. The road was barricaded by a demonstration, so we had to get off and drag our stuff a long way to the outskirts of town where we managed to grab a cab.

Argentina is having a lot of social problems - the inflation rate is about 30% and the gap between rich and poor is increasing. The rich find ways to save their money in other currencies or assets, but the poor are stuck with the fact that a peso you have today is worth almost nothing in 3 years.

Our hostel in La Quiaca! (the front was a mess but behind was OK)

La Quiaca is the most northern city in Argentina - 5170 km north of Ushuaia where we were about 2 months ago. With our back and forth moves between Argentina and Chile, we travelled far more distance than that - all by bus and a ferry trip.

Market in La Quiaca

The city was a bit of a disaster sleep-wise. The demonstration that met our arrival escalated into an all night highly amp'd rally not too far from our hostel. There was much continuous screaming into microphones accompanied by rhythmic drum beating. We were glad to leave the next morning.


CROSSING INTO BOLIVIA

There is no cross border transportation service to Bolivia. We took a taxi to the border, checked out of Argentina, walked across the border and tried to check into Bolivia. They were not the least interested in us. "Just go" the officials said. So we grabbed a taxi to the local bus terminal. We had no reservation for anything.

Arrival at the Bolivian bus "terminal" was chaotic. People grabbed our bags out of the taxi and started fighting over who was going to transport us to our next destination Tupiza - about 1 1/2 hrs. away. Finally one group got the upper hand, hauled us and our stuff into a storefront and slammed the door on the hordes. We were about to be transported on a collectivo - basically a passenger vehicle that runs a set route and carries as many as possible.

Just when we thought the collectivo was full and we were ready to go, we realized the driver was just starting to load the car. Finally, off we hurtled down the highway - ten of us and all our stuff in an old, small Toyota station wagon.Music at full volume through major crackly speakers. The rather large lady in front,  straddling the bucket seats, crossed herself numerous times as the driver showed his prowess at passing anything, anywhere. Maybe she saved all our lives.

So here we are in Tupiza, Bolivia, staying at the Mitru hotel - first time in a hotel since we left two months ago. The hotel is quite nice, includes a pool and for $27 a night for a double ensuite, including an excellent breakfast, you can't beat the price. We had lunch at a local cafe yesterday. We had a salad, huge bowl of soup and meat & potatoes for less than $2 each. After the inflated prices in Chile & Argentina, this is a relief.

Labour must be pretty cheap in Bolivia. 

Just found out this morning that our 4 day jeep trip is confirmed. There are 4 people per 6 seater jeep plus a driver and tour guide/cook. We had to pay a bit more for an English speaking guide and to rent sleeping bags. The total came to 1500 bolivianos each, or about $225. Seems like a great deal, but we'll see.

9. Mendoza & Cordoba, Argentina

The 7 hour bus from Santiago, Chile to Mendoza Argentina turned into 9. The highway follows a tortuous route over the Andes and it was under construction. Not just part of it, - the whole route. Traffic was 1 way from Chile for 12 hrs and from Argentina the other 12. If you happened to depart at the wrong time you were in for a long wait. We didn't arrive until 2 am.

Mendoza is a very pleasant city in the middle of Argentina's wine country - lots of green spaces and a huge park about half the size of the metro area. The weather has been unseasonally warm and we had our shorts on for the first time since last summer in Canada. (Nobody wears shorts here except youngsters and tourists so we gringos really stand out).

View from atop Mendoza City Hall

We did lots of walking and while in the big park - guess what - we ran straight into the Aussies Mark &  Karry again. If we had just taken a slightly different route or were 2 minutes later, we would have missed them. This is really getting freaky. The chances of winning the lottery would be better than all the chance encounters we have had with them.

Rented some bikes and toured around the winery country. OK we did do some sampling and no, we did not crash the bikes.

Typical Market Scene

Then off to Cordoba via overnight bus. This time we went executive class - the seats recline almost horizontal and you get meals - even wine. Still hard to get  a good nights sleep. Took a local bus to Alta Gracia, about an hour away. Visited the museum and boyhood home of Ernesto "Che" Guevara of Cuban revolution fame. Very interesting, especially after the exposure we had to his legend when we were in Cuba for 3 months on the boat.

Our plans may be changing again. We head north tonight on another overnight (12hr) bus to Salta, Arg. We have heard about a great 4 day jeep trip in Bolivia, so may end up going there before returning to Chile and the Atacama Desert. We'll see.

8. Valparaiso and Santiago, Chile

We arrived in Valparaiso, Chile via an overnight 12 hr. bus from Pucon. The trip was reasonably comfortable - there are upgraded seats you can buy that are larger and recline further. First big city for us since Buenos Aires at the beginning of our trip.

Valparaiso has been an important port city for centuries, but it's glory days are well in the past. Paint a scene of many stray dogs (with accompanying droppings), graffiti literally

everywhere, noise and an overall run down appearance and you might wonder why anyone would go there. In fact it was a very interesting place and we enjoyed our stay there. The double room booked at the hostel turned out to be a self-contained apartment which was nice - the only thing we missed was the usual interaction with other travellers in a normal hostel.

Other than a few flat streets near the ocean, Valparaiso rises on many steep hills and our legs got a severe workout in our 4 days there. The real fun is just wandering around in a semi-organized fashion - you don't know what to expect around the next corner. The city has many funicular railroad elevators, all of which are close to or over 100 years old. They are used by the locals and transport you almost vertically up the hills. Saves the legs and great views at the top. We rode a few of them.

After some serious bargaining we took a small local boat with just the two of us, on a 1/2 hr trip around the harbour - huge container ships from all around the world, seal lions basking on huge harbour buoys as well as a superb view of the city from the water.

The stray dogs do not bother anyone but they bark all night! We need to invest in some good earplugs. As far as graffiti goes, there is some seriously good condoned art in places - however there is a huge amount of tagging and basically vandalism.

Our last day we took the Metro north about 15 minutes to Vina del Mar, Valparaiso's alter ego - where the wealthier crowd hang out. What a difference. More affluent and much less graffiti. However much less character. A very interesting museum with one of the original moai from Easter Island (Chilean) along with many exhibits showing how they were made and transported to the various sites. That's about as close as we will ever get to Easter Island.

A little light humour at the hostel

After a short 2 hr bus ride we arrived in Santiago - a big city of about 7 million. Did lots of walking, but basically another big city. The hostel is kind of funky - lots of young folks with party time top of the agenda. Took an old funicular up to the top of the largest hill in the city - great views but it was very hazy. 30C with no breeze. Hottest day since we left Canada. Met up one evening with Leo - a colleague of Stephanie's who works north of Santiago and had a very pleasant visit.

Off tomorrow to Mendoza, Argentina.

7. Pucon, Chile

Pucon is the outdoor adventurer's paradise. If you can't find you favourite activity here then it hasn't been invented. The setting is idyllic - on a lake with a huge volcano as a backdrop - or so they said. We were here for 2 days - some rain, fog but no volcano. On the third day the weather lifted and the majestic snow-topped mountain appeared. WOW! Volcano Villarica.

The day we arrived, we had just checked into the hostel and were headed into town when guess what - we ran straight into Mark & Karry, the Aussies that have been stalking us - or since they were here first I guess we're to blame. We each have our own uncoordinated plans but it's amazing how many times we have crossed paths. They were heading out later that day on an overnight bus. It was the day before Marilyn's birthday, but they claimed it was already her birthday in Australia, so we had to celebrate. After a couple of heavy duty Margaritas the girls were in very good form!

Most adventurers (mid 20s on average) come here at this time of year ( fall in southern hemisphere) to climb the volcano. This was not on our agenda. With age comes a slight bit of sanity (which with further increase in age rapidly disappears). It is actually not a hugely difficult climb but quite a few people have lost their lives in the last few years.

With the inclement weather we headed first to a set of thermal pools, of which there are many in the area. Nice relaxing soak in a series of pools of varying temperature.

Next day we went white water rafting on a pretty wild river. The previous 2 days rain made it pretty scary. Class 3, 4 and 5 rapids. Halfway (the drop was too steep) we had to get out of the raft and portage, then jump off a 17 ft cliff into the swirling water and swim like mad for shore. Marilyn was not a happy participant but she came through with flying colours. It was a great day but we were pretty bruised and contused!

There is a beautiful National Park - Huerquehue - pretty well unpronounceable - near Pucon. We did a major hike - about 18 k in total - up a mountain to 2 waterfalls and 3 lakes. Problem was the constant steep climb on the way up and the even harder descent. We were feeling some pain by the time we got back down!

The last day we needed some rest as we awaited our overnight bus to Valparaiso, Chile. We wandered the town and rented a two person paddle
boat and headed out into the lake to get some photos of the volcano without all the hydro wires. All in all a great stopover.

6. Isla Chiloe

Chiloe is the second largest island in South America (after Isla Grande in Tierra del Fuego). It has a unique culture and appeal due to it's independent people who are separated from the mainland.

We spent 4 nights over Easter in a really nice hostel right on the waterfront in the town of Ancud. Chiloe is famous for it's more than 150 unique old wooden churches, most built by shipbuilders. The joinery work is excellent. 16 of the churches have been declared world heritage sites by Unesco. We spent a nice day wandering around some small towns in the middle of the island and checking out some of the churches.

 We took 5 different buses (no reservations) and 2 ferries and the total bill for each of us for the day was less than $15. We were really lucky with the weather - it was great - it is usually a bit misty & rainy on the coast.

Typical wood shingle-sided house

The bus system in Chile is excellent. On the main routes are modern luxury coaches far superior to anything in Canada. As you get into the less travelled areas, the buses get more basic, then smaller and for the rural stops, minibuses. In most cases, service is very frequent. You can get anywhere by bus. Just hop off at a junction then wait a short while for one going in your direction.

Another interesting architectural feature on Chiloe, particularly in the mid-island town of Castro, is the palafito - a house backing on to the ocean that looks normal from the front but is on stilts at the back, over the water. There are rows of them. We had a nice coffee in a tiny cafe on one of them. At high tide people have boats tied to their back deck, which then become beached at low tide.

Our final night on Chiloe we treated ourselves to their traditional dish - Curanto. A mixture of seafood, potatoes, beef, chicken, sausage, corn dumplings and who knows what else - all in great quantities!  We did not come close to finishing it all. The photo was taken after we had already polished off quite a bit.